What's really driving the explosion of second-hand consumption ?
When a piece of clothing, albeit second-hand, costs less than an average glass of wine, is this something to celebrate or is there an underlying bigger issue ?
I’ve found myself having this very debate as I indulge in ad-break shopping, scrolling through my phone favouriting items at bargain prices from the 500 million items for sale on Vinted.
Vinted, the Lithuanian tech-start up founded in 2008 by Milda Mitkute has over 16 million users in the UK alone, nearly one quarter of the entire population ! Until the Covid-19 pandemic it had been a pretty slow burner but spending so much time at home coupled with a huge spike in employment redundancy meant we were simultaneously looking to clear our wardrobes and also to satisfy a craving of newness. In 2023, Vinted reported a 680% growth in just 18 months, a distinct indication that second-hand consumption is becoming increasingly popular.
Unlike its more established rivals Ebay and Depop, there are no sellers fees. The super simple uploading process takes less than 30 seconds per item (I literally timed this), meaning you can be making money on the move ! Vinted's broad user base also significantly enhances its resale appeal. This means items are likely to find buyers quickly, making it a low-risk platform for sellers. If an item doesn’t quite meet expectations, it can easily be relisted and sold again, which is very attractive to sellers who can rapidly move mistake purchases on and won’t be out of pocket.
On the flip side, Vinted offers significant benefits for buyers as well. The platform's pricing can be incredibly competitive, with many items available at steep discounts. I snapped up a pre-worn, excellent condition 100% silk COS dress for just £12, likely to be 90% off its original retail price and a discount retail stores cannot compete with.
The filter options on Vinted are very well considered and enhance the shopping experience by allowing buyers to set alerts for their favourite brands and sizes, ensuring they don't miss out on new listings. This feature, combined with the thrill of discovering items that may have been missed in-store or were previously unaffordable, makes shopping on Vinted feel like a virtual treasure hunt !
So what’s not to love ? Vinted’s CEO, Adam Jay, states “Our mission is to make secondhand the first choice globally,” which in theory sounds great. And whilst I agree, the more people who choose to buy pre-loved should have a positive influence on mass-production and ultimately waste.
However, I wonder if the notion of getting more bang for your buck aligns with the original problem we strongly criticise with fast fashion ? If I’m completely honest, I’ve probably over-consumed these past few months. I’ve impulse bought from brands I don’t normally shop with and my snap decision has been fuelled by low price and FOMO.
Fast fashion brands are undoubtedly aware of the booming consumer-to-consumer market. They might see this as an opportunity to maintain their relevance and influence. By keeping a watchful eye on resale trends, these brands can adapt their strategies to keep consumers engaged and ensure their products remain desirable, even in the second-hand market.
It is worth considering if second-hand could even be encouraging mass production. For example, some users who buy items on sale with the intent to resell them for a profit can inadvertently support the fast fashion cycle.
On one hand, while reselling fast fashion items can be seen as extending the lifespan of products and reducing waste, it doesn't fully align with the mission of sustainability. The core issue remains the high volume of production and the short lifecycle of fast fashion garments. The resale market, in this context, can sometimes mask the underlying environmental and ethical concerns by shifting focus from production to circulation.
The prevalence of buying and selling clothing for very low prices on platforms like Vinted can indeed distort our understanding of the true cost of producing garments, especially those made with ethical considerations and skilled workmanship. I make this point for the brands and their retail stockists who really are trying to do the right thing by investing in artisan techniques and fostering slow production. There is a need for greater consumer education about the true costs of garment making. Understanding the labor, resources, and time required to produce high-quality, ethically made clothing, can help shift consumer behaviour towards valuing and supporting sustainable fashion. Cultivating a culture that appreciates and values craftsmanship, quality, and sustainability is crucial. For example brands and retailers that share the stories behind garments, emphasising the skills and efforts of artisans, and encouraging mindful consumption.
At the same time the current economic climate, influenced by the cost of living crisis, makes second-hand shopping a practical and appealing option for many people. For the majority of us, our disposable income is very different to what it was pre-Covid times with affordability and accessibility at the forefront. In short, many people actually need their Vinted side-hustle to support the economic challenges they face. For instance, flexibility and accessibility of online resale may aid parents who maybe cannot work full-time and afford full-time childcare.
Finally, as travel and hospitality are service-based industries, where it is not possible to heavily discount prices without impacting the experience and quality of service, further strengthens the popularity of buying second-hand. Pricing in online resale is primarily driven by the condition, brand, and market demand for physical products coupled with convenience and efficiency to buy or sell anytime, anywhere.
Vinted's challenge ahead lies in aligning their mission to promote sustainability with consumer behaviours driven by price sensitivity. While the platform promotes the benefits of secondhand shopping beyond just cost savings, the reality is that many of us initially engage due to the economic benefits. '“Why pay full price?” is a very hard question to justify right now.
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